The Women Accepted for Voluntary Emergency Service, known as WAVES, wore this seersucker shirtdress uniform for everyday service during World War II.

WAVES was a branch of the U.S. Navy that consisted entirely of women and was commanded by the first commissioned female officers. It was created in 1942, when President Roosevelt signed a law creating a role for women in the Navy. Women were a significant part of the armed forces in WWI, but between WWI and WWII, Navy regulations only allowed men to enlist. The legislation creating WAVES was controversial. There was resistance from conservative officers who did not believe that women belonged in the armed forces. Even the word “emergency” in the title suggested that women’s presence in the armed forces was only temporary.

The WAVES uniform was designed by the influential American couturier Mainbocher at the request of the wife of the Assistant Secretary of the Navy. Mainbocher was known for the simple elegance and exclusivity of his designs. He is also famous for creating the first strapless evening gown. There were four standard styles of uniform: summer dress whites, (like this one),summer grays working blues, and dress blues.

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